A KFC Kinda Christmas

Another post about KFC? I think so! Just snapped these today when I was waiting to order a coffee so that I could rightfully sit in KFC and study Japanese. Before you judge, you must know that the KFCs in Japan is much nicer than the ones in the U.S. Maybe not all of them are swanky here, but the one in my neighborhood has a second level that would trick any unsuspecting foreigner into thinking they had walked into a Starbucks. The seating is plush, and most merrily, a 7-song playlist of somewhat recognizable Christmas tunes (some in Japanese, many American) plays on loop, creating a familiar studying ambiance to which I am accustomed.

But here is the real reason why I wanted to post anew. This is what you - if you are so luck to be in Japan this time of year - can order to be ready for pickup on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, or December 26th. A "Party Barrel" of chicken for ¥3880, or converted, a whopping $46!!! And while the Japanese are marking their calendars for this special fried chicken frenzy, the lines of which will be out the door, and filling up what remaining pickup slots are available for one of the above three dates, I have decidedly made plans not to drop my hard earned money on this "Party Barrel," as tempting as the taste of America is. But who can resist just one piece, or two even?

And check out that chocolate cake! Nothing goes better with fried chicken, honestly.


Carly, in her IUC classes, has been learning a little about Japan's "soft power" capabilities, which, in international politics, might be defined as the ability to obtain what one wants through co-option and attraction, contrasted with "hard power," which is the use of coercion and payment to gain what one wishes. Japan is of the belief, so I hear, that by exporting their manga culture (illustrated books, or comics) to the U.S., they will eventually win over the American people and have a stronger hand in guiding U.S.-Japan relations and politics. And to them I say, "good luck!" Well. Don't anyone tell Japan, but KFC appears to be making a soft power play on the Japanese, leading them away from their traditional onigiri and bentos and right into the hands of Colonel Sanders and everything else American. Not that this should surprise anyone; Japan loves American culture. However, if Japan is not careful, the Japanese may find themselves mired in another kind of American soft power : that which resides around their midsections. And they shall truly know an American holiday season. Happy holidays, all.

Kitayama's fall foliage

The fall of Kyoto is more unlike Virginia's or Chicago's than I had anticipated before coming to Japan. The trees' leaves here emit a wider range of colors than the typical browns and oranges of Virginia. There are brighter yellows and reds, and as the reds, browns, and a little green, mix together, the effect is more powerful and breathtaking.

Here are some photos from around my neighborhood and my bike ride to work in the morning.

This is a favorite. This must be the most brightly colored tree, in red, that I've ever come across.









I also recently figured out the "color accent" setting on my camera, so I've been experimenting with leaving colors out and accentuating other colors to make the images more vivid.

A tree in the courtyard of Rakuhoku high school.

The same tree.



This one was taken looking out the front gate and archway of Rakuhoku, leaving all the colors muted save the bright yellow - the natural yellow, untampered - of the pair of trees that daily welcome me to school.

Thanksgiving in Japan = KFC

A warm welcome to any new readers who might have been directed here by accidentally clicking on the "Blogroll" section of the most recent edition of the the UVA Class of 2008 Young Alumni Newsletter. Glad to have you and hope you read further than the end of this sentence.

Well, I am officially a "once-a-month-blogger," according to Carly (my wife - UVA Class of 2007, one year less cool than the Class of 2008). So I have some work to do to regain the title of "once-every-two-weeks-blogger." Life is settling down her - at least it has been until the excitement and joy of this past weekend. But we'll get there. Japan is becoming the norm, and it takes more effort for some event to get a squeal of excitement out of me. It's getting much colder in Kyoto these days, and the chill has nowhere to go once it's settled into the encompassing hollows of the northern Kyoto mountains. So I'm getting the blankets prepped and ready. They say it gets cold in Japan. However, they (my coworkers) have never been to Chicago or Boston. So I trust I'll be underwhelmed.

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone! I can't believe it's here (there) in the U.S., mostly because it's already been here for me in Japan, and not just because of the 14-hour time difference I currently have on everyone on the east coast. No, it's because Carly and I celebrated our Thanksgiving this past weekend in Yokohama, where she is living, since I was conveniently able to make a 4-day weekend out of the most recent one. So I'd like to give you an idea of what a Thanksgiving might look like (taste like, smell like, feel like) in Yokohama, Japan for a young couple that is working with a tight budget, no turkey, and no readily available pumpkin pie (I have made pumpkin pie before in Kyoto, but I didn't have the supplies needed this time).

We kicked the weekend off on Saturday with a holiday run at a Starbucks in Chinatown. Do they have the Caramel Creme (?) Christmas flavor in the U.S. right now? Because that is somehow a holiday flavor, while EGGNOG is NOT! WHAA??!?! That is my favorite, but they do not think eggnog is a real flavor here. That's my best guess on the matter.


We got Thanksgiving started later that afternoon after scouring the local stores for provisions and supplies. There are many things you don't expect to miss before you leave for a foreign country for a long period of time. Turkey was one of those things for me, sliced deli turkey especially. They don't do the bird here. So, leave it to American 'soft power' to provide me with some crispy chicken on the special day. KFC was ready and waiting for our business that afternoon. But they don't offer stuffing, a no-nonsense necessity to every Thanksgiving feast. So we made our own. Here's the menu we were working with, compliments of Carly's blog:

(a) chicken breasts from KFC - interestingly enough, KFC is considered a very common holiday-time fare here (I hear the lines are out the door on Christmas day)
(b) stuffing/dressing--made by me in the rice cooker
(c) cheese-egg-spinach souffle-inspired dish--made by Carly on the stovetop
(d) roll (included in KFC bag)
(e) coleslaw (included in KFC bag)
(f) pecan-cranberry bake (made in the toaster oven and inspired by this recipe http://www.marthastewart.com/recipe/new-england-cranberry-duff?backto=true&backtourl=/photogallery/thanksgiving-desserts#slide_3)
(g) the new Beaujolais Nouveau (purchased at a foreign food store)

And in what other fashion of dress could anyone hope to achieve perfect Thanksgiving merriment than in my own uncoordinated plaid-on-plaid combo? The answer is none. But comfortable. Indeed!


Carly and I sit down to our humble meal in her Yokohama apartment. We are just like the pilgrims celebrating their first Thanksgiving in a new, distant land, surrounded by strange people.


For dessert, in addition to her cranberry pie, Carly concocted some marshmallows in chocolate with sprinkles. They were magical, my dear.


The tradition that has been upheld in Carly's household for many years, and which is now becoming the tradition in our house, is to watch Christmas movies the night of Thanksgiving, after the meal has been put away and the day is nearing a close. Can you guess the first one we watched???


A Muppet Christmas Carol is the correct answer! Jim Henson, bless your heart. Your muppets are hilarious! This movie is pure holiday gold. After this classic, we watched the #1 All-time Best Christmas movie of all-time, all-time: It's a Wonderful Life. Hands down, best ever. If I took the time to memorize the majority of the lines in this film, I'd be quoting it every day. It's bound to be watched again before this season is over.

The following days consisted of some more adventure in a city that is never finished showing me new things. Car and I visited the 'Diplomat's House,' a house that a Japanese diplomat had constructed in the 'Western style' upon his return from service in the U.S. of A. On one of his study walls hangs a framed certificate inaugurating his service as a diplomat, signed in 1902 by Mr./President Teddy Roosevelt himself. This was a very unexpected find. I've seen few documents signed by U.S. Presidents and none by Theodore Roosevelt. And to find something signed by him in a small house in Yokohama, Japan, which I could approach as near as two inches, is just amazing! This got me to thinking: in what obscure places of the world might Mr. Jefferson's signature be on display? Some small bungalow in a small, secluded town in Norway? That's just about the equivalent obscure location. I am posing here in the best diplomatic posture I can assume on his fine table. Perhaps the bent knee was a mistake.


The following day, Carly and I discovered the shopping street of Motomachi in Yokohama. It was, in Carly's words, a 'Christmas land!!!' We had more Starbucks, saw some lights, and did a little X-Mas shopping.


Carly found her most favorite kind of store on this street, a Christmas store!


Other highlights from the my long weekend included eating 500 yen okonomiyaki, eating oden from 7-11, Freshness Burger, and... a full day in Tokyo. Clearly, food is important to me. In Tokyo, I passed through the districts of Shibuya, Harajuku, Roppongi, and Ginza. I had lunch with first-year UVA suitemate Billy Martyn (class of 2008) and friend Franky Chung (class of 2009). I hadn't seen Billy since graduation. Incredible how time flies! Check out their new Tokyo-based social networking project at www.abcloop.com.

In addition, I visited the most absurd Abercrombie and Fitch store while in Ginza, as a matter of fact. Let me tell you. The store was 10-stories high, each floor with an identical layout. All the employees were dressed identically, and the music was so loud, and the lights so dim (as if in a late 1990's dance club), that I actually felt awkward looking at a pair of jeans. Let me not forget to mention the gyrating male and female employee duo stationed by the first set of stairs to the second level, getting the "party started" at A&F. I actually had to walk by them, and a shirtless model, as they bounced to the music. And, there were no clothes on the entry level floor. Just me, a random photographer with a giant camera as if to take photo ops of willing customers with the shirtless guy, the shirtless guy, the gyrating duo, and me. Very awkward, but I quickly rushed past and got some exercise out of climbing all 10 stories. I just couldn't believe it would all be the same. But it was. Super Japanese? Maybe not. To read more about how one American apparel company is not 'getting' the Japanese mindset, check out http://www.businessoffashion.com/2010/02/in-tokyo-abercrombie-misses-its-mark.html You're in for a laugh.

Amanohashidate

Carly has come and gone once again. Her fall break from school allowed us a week together in Kyoto (although I had to work), but we escaped up north to a quaint seaside town called Amanohashidate for a quick weekend. The name Amanohashidate means "bridge to heaven," roughly and it one of Japan's "three scenic views" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Views_of_Japan).

So we got in on Friday afternoon around 12:30 and went for lunch at a small place where Carly befriended the proprietor, an older woman of about 70. The meal was fantastic, and Carly gradually got to talkin' with the proprietor/owner/cook/server about the food. The woman was so honored that Carly found her fish seaweed side dish to be so tasty (it was) that she showered Carly with offers of recipes and fresh vegetables from her own recent delivery. Carly declined, but the befriending made for an excellent start to the weekend.

In the first afternoon we walked across the 4 km. land bridge that is Amanohashidate. Here I am before we set out.

A view from the bridge at the beginning of the walk.


There is a long beach that runs the eastern side of the land bridge. I saw it as an opportunity to take some Karate Kid shots. It is one of my favorite movies from the 80's. Doing the Crane, mid-kick:


Eat your heart out, Ralph Macchio.


Carly is flying like a genie:


On the other side of the bridge, the sun was beginning to set. I took this picture of a passing ferry. Turned out to look like a scene from a Mark Twain novel. Just looking at it makes me miss the South.

A persimmon tree bearing some fruit.


On day two, we took the chair lift up the adjacent mountain to view Amanohashidate from some elevation. No seat-belts required, or harnesses. The ride was six minutes long, although I would have enjoyed it had it been longer. Carly in front:


The wondrous view of Amanohashidate, though too cloudy for a great image.



An old block print from Wikipedia (I mean, Japan) attests to its historic significance. Didn't see that orange house on our walk.


At the top, Carly and I put on Christmas head gear - she, some antlers, and I, an elf hat - and took some Christmas photos. Carly likes this one of her in her antlers gazing off.

And then it was all over. We took the seats back down and got on our bus back to Kyoto, where we spent the evening watching NBC television and the movie Love Actually.

First Pumpkin Pie of the Season

Carly and I made our first Pumpkin Pie of the season this past week for a belated celebration of Halloween for my ESS (English speaking society) club at Rakuhoku high school. Looks delish, doesn't it?